(ARA) – Halloween, Thanksgiving, Hanukkah, Christmas, New Year’s Eve and Kwanzaa – no matter what you’re celebrating, pet owners need to remember to keep their pets safe and healthy for the holidays.

“Veterinarians often see an uptick in the number of problematic calls during the holiday season,” explains Dr. Larry R. Corry, AVMA president. “Whether it’s an exposure to chocolate or fatty foods or pets upset due to unexpected guests or costumed visitors late at night, the holidays can present problems for pets. The AVMA urges all pet owners to include the health and safety of their pets in any plans for the holidays.”

Here are the AVMA’s top 10 pet tips for holiday safety:

1. Be wary of holiday decorations; pets often consume them. “The animal raids the Christmas tree, for example, and this can be unhealthy for the pet and very upsetting for the pet owners,” explains Corry. “If they consume enough tinsel or other decorations, it can cause a blockage that requires surgery.”

2. Flowers are another common holiday feature that can result in an emergency visit. Poinsettias, Amaryllis and mistletoe are on the list of common holiday plants that can be dangerous and even poisonous to house pets who decide to eat them, Corry says.

3. Just like people, some pets are better at dealing with houseguests than others. If you know your pet has a problem with visitors, work with your veterinarian for solutions. For severe problems, your veterinarian may recommend medications or even boarding the animal.

4. Don’t let your pet climb the Christmas tree. If the tree falls over, your pet could be injured. Consider tying the tree to the ceiling or a doorframe using fishing line.

5. Cover Christmas tree water to keep animals from drinking it. The sap from live Christmas trees can make your pet sick.

6. Many people believe that people food makes good treats for their pets, but this isn’t the case. Many common ingredients in a holiday feast – like onions, garlic, chocolate and artificial sweeteners – are poisonous to pets. And dogs that consume an excessive amount of fatty foods, by cleaning a turkey carcass pulled from the trash, for example, can develop a life-threatening condition called pancreatitis.

7. Whether they are Halloween candies or Christmas chocolate, keep sweets out of your pet’s reach, particularly while you’re out. A pet that consumes chocolates while you’re away at work, for example, might be too sick for your veterinarian to save by the time you get home.

8. Unplug decorations while you’re not around. Cats and dogs are often tempted to chew electrical cords.

9. Keep any gift that includes human food out of a pet’s reach. With their sensitive sense of smell, dogs and cats can find those wrapped treats and open them when you’re not around.

10. Candles are a common part of many holiday celebrations. Make sure that you keep lit candles out of a pet’s reach, because the animal could light themselves, or your home, on fire.

The AVMA offers a great deal of information on its Web site, www.avma.org, including a free brochure on common household hazards and a free video about common household poisons.

Courtesy of ARAcontent

How to Groom a Longhair Dog

from wikiHow – The How to Manual That You Can Edit

Grooming your long haired dog is a very important task which maintains the dog’s coat health and cleanliness. Longhaired dogs get dirty easily, mat and tangle, and may smell bad if not groomed properly. Everyone wants a beautiful longhaired pup, right? And the dog wants a beautiful coat! This page will tell you how to keep your longhaired dog’s coat in top condition, weather you are in the conformation ring, or at home!

Steps

1. Get all the materials needed. (See “Things You’ll Need” below for a list of the more common items needed.)
2. Place the longhaired dog on a comfortable spot on the floor or on a grooming table. If on the floor, lay out a soft, large towel. Remove any accessories the dog is wearing such as a collar, bows, or dog clothing.
3. Use a pin brush and comb the dog’s ears gently. Then turn the dog over on its back and brush its chest, under its armpits, and on its “under” legs. Brush the featherings on the dog’s legs, the tail, thighs, neck, and back. Then use the comb to repeat the same steps with the pin brush. Use the bristle brush and and repeat the same steps as the comb. Then brush the dog’s face and muzzle very gently.
4. If your breed allows it, use an undercoat rake or stripping knife to thin out some hair.
5. Using tweezers, gently pluck the hair inside the ear. Be careful so as not to hurt your dog. Leaving hair inside the ear can cause infections and can be uncomfortable. Use either ear wipes or ear cleanser to wipe the ear where wax is evident and through the different crevasses in the ear. The wax is usually a brown or black color. Be careful not to stick a finger into the ear canal. For cleansing, use a product like Doctor’s Foster and Smith Ear Cleanse. Squirt the solution in the dog’s ear and rub the ear in a circular motion. Take a cotton ball, place it right under the flap, and tip your dog’s head toward it. The solution will be caught in the cotton ball. Next, take a clean cotton ball and wipe again to ensure that all the cleanser has been removed. The dog’s ears should be very clean.
6. Using a dog toothbrush (or a finger brush) and dog toothpaste. Small finger brushes that fit over the tip of your finger are available in pet stores and catalogs. Brushing a dog’s teeth is very important and can prevent painful and costly dental surgeries, as well as internal infections.
7. Squirt a pea-sized amount on the toothbrush. Gently, move the dog’s lip upward to expose its teeth. Brush all the teeth inside the mouth for about one minute. You should brush your dog’s teeth at least twice a week.
8. Gently wipe any eye discharge away. Wipe around the eye rim with the eye wipes. Do this daily.
9. Time to clip those nails! Use a dog nail clipper, not a human nail clipper. Ask a veterinarian to show you how to clip the nails. Don’t try it by yourself first! Clip the tip of the nail. Be careful not to hit the quick. The quick is very hard to see in black nails, so don’t cut any further than the tip. If you hit the quick, it will be a very painful experience for your dog. See the Warning section to learn what to do when you hit a quick. Clipping the nails is essential in the grooming process and prevents nail damage and injury to the dog’s feet.
10. Time to have a bath! For instructions on how to do a “fast bath,” go to the “Tips” below. Otherwise, stay here.
11. Get the right shampoo and conditioner
    • Use a creamy dog shampoo and conditioner that will make your longhair dog’s coat silky and soft. Do not use a harsh shampoo, as these will make the coat brittle and poofy. Harsh shampoos look clearer and more like a gel. They are also thicker than creamy shampoos.
12. Directions for Bathing your Longhaired Dog
    • Wet the dog completely starting from the top of the head to the end of the tail. With a double-coated dog like a Collie, this may take some time and patience.
    • Start with a small amount of shampoo in the palm of your hand. Lather from the top of the dog’s neck to the end of the tail. Shampoo the outside of the ears, the legs, the chest, belly, featherings, and the rest of the body. (Don’t get in eyes!)
    • Rinse the shampoo out of the coat until it is shampoo free. A good method is to rinse the dog with clean water until there are no more suds or bubbles coming from the dog’s coat. Next, shampoo the dog’s head. Always use a tearless dog shampoo, not human shampoo on the dog to avoid stinging the eyes. To shampoo the head, start at the top and work your way down to the muzzle.
13. Th enext step is to condition the coat. Useing a small amount of conditioner in the palm of your hand, smooth the conditioner over the top of the neck to the end of the tail. Cover the outside of the ears, the legs, the chest, featherings and the rest of the body. Keep the conditioner on for 5 to 10 minutes. Rinse until it is out of the coat. If there is still soap in the coat, make sure you keep rinsing until the coat is clean or your dog will be very uncomfortable. Let your dog shake the water off once. Half the drying is done right there. Using a large, dry towel, stroke all over the dog’s body until it is not dripping any more (estimated time is about 2-3 minutes) Afterwards, the dog will still be damp, but not wet. Using the dog blow-drier, dry the dog on the lowest heat setting possible. While drying the dog, use the pin brush to repeat the brushing routine as previously. Use the comb to repeat the same steps as before. Pay special attention to the featherings, ears, and tail. Comb these so the are straight, and comb until dry.
14. Using the grooming scissors, trim the hair on your dogs feet (usually, depending on the breed). Only use grooming scissors for this, so that your dog is more comfortable. Using other types of scissors will also cause thinner hair and the dreaded split ends!
15. Using grooming scissors, trim the ends of the featherings on the dog’s legs so they are straight.
16. Ask your dog to stack. Have him hold up his tail so it is level with his back. If your breed allows it, use the grooming scissors to trim the featherings on the tail so that it looks like a D with the rounded part toward the ground.
17. If your breed allows it, use the thinning shears to thin the dog’s coat where needed. Remember to only cut vertically, as horizontally cuts will make your dog’s coat look choppy.

Tips

• If a “mat” (tangle) is found while while brushing the dog, remove it as quickly as possible. Use a mat detangler such as Unicoat (also a waterless shampoo and antistatic). Saturate the mat with the detangler and comb out. If this doesn’t work, use a mat breaker. Comb through to break the mat. If this still doesn’t work, you may have to cut the mat with grooming scissors to avoid hurting your dog. Some mats are tangled down close to the skin, so be very careful.
• While trimming the dog, only use grooming scissors. Other types of scissors may cause split ends or uneven hair. They may pull the dog’s hair, as well. This is a painful experience, and if you don’t invest in the correct scissors, your dog will learn to hate being trimmed. Even though some pairs of grooming scissors may be expensive, they are a worthwhile investment. If used and taken care of properly, a good pair will last a long time.
• How to do a fast bath.
  • Fast baths are not really considered baths in the traditional sense, and should not be used as a long-term substitute for baths.
• Use a “waterless” shampoo. I like to use Miracle Coat: Waterless Shampoo for Dogs.
  • Spray all over the dog’s coat (avoiding the face, but including the ears) and saturate the coat. Rub in, and then towel dry. Most longhaired dog’s coats are supposed to lie flat on the body, so stroke the towel against the dog’s body, DO NOT RUB! Afterwards, brush the coat out and your dog’s coat will be lusterous and silky.
  • Try to do this at least once a week (not counting the week you give your dog a ‘real’ bath.)
• If your dog’s coat has a static charge, spray an anti-static (most waterless shampoos work as antistatics) lightly over the coat, then comb out.
• Dogs are usually very shy with people handling their feet, so you should start clipping their nails during puppyhood.

Warnings

• Always keep styptic nail powder handy when you clip your dog’s nails. While you are clipping your dog’s nails, look for the quick. The quick is the blood vessel in the nails. You should only need to clip your dog’s nails once a month or less. Only clip the tip of the nail. If you go any farther, you may hit the quick. If you cut the quick deeply, blood will squirt everywhere and your dog will be in tremendous pain. If you just nick it, you may see a drop or two of blood. Either way, if you hit the quick, make sure have have some nail powder. You can buy it in little tubes at pet supply stores. Stick your dog’s nail inside the powder, and eventually the bleeding will stop. If the bleeding is severe, keep the nail in the powder and get your dog’s vet on the phone. Your vet will give you further instructions. If you would rather, just rush to the veterinarian’s office as quickly as possible! While going to the vet’s, try to keep your dog’s nail in the powder. Many people think that the body’s “natural clotting” will stop the quick from bleeding. In this case, it may not. Some say that if you are out of powder, you can try rubbing a bar of soap across the nail.
• DANGER: If you accidentally use ear wipes as eye wipes you can blind your dog.
• Don’t use human toothpaste on your pooch. Human toothpaste is toxic to dogs.
• Don’t wipe inside your dog’s ear canal; you can break the eardrum.
• Only use grooming scissors to trim your dog! Other scissors may cause split ends or uneven hair. Other types of scissors may pull on the dog’s hair. This is a painful experience, and eventually if you don’t invest in the correct scissors, your dog will learn to hate being trimmed. Even though some pairs of grooming scissors may be expensive, they are a worthwhile investment and if used and taken care of properly, will last you a long time.

Things You’ll Need

• A pin brush
• A dog comb
• A bristle brush
• Undercoat rake
• Stripping knife
• Two towels (one may not be needed if using a grooming table)
• Tweezers
• Ear wipes or ear cleanser (Ear cleanser preferred: Doctors Foster and Smith Ear Cleanse)
• Cotton balls
• Dog toothbrush, finger brush, and dog-specific toothpaste
• Eye wipes
• Dog nail clipper
• Creamy dog shampoo
• Creamy dog conditioner
• Grooming scissors
• If needed, thinning shears
• Dog waterless shampoo
• Powder formulated to stop the nail quick from bleeding.
• Mat breaker

Related wikiHows

• How to Brush a Dog’s Teeth
• How to Groom and Train a Yorkshire Terrier
• How to Rid Your Pet of Fleas
• How to Brush a Long Haired Dog

Article provided by wikiHow, a wiki how-to manual. Please edit this article and find author credits at the original wikiHow article on How to Groom a Longhair Dog. All content on wikiHow can be shared under a Creative Commons license.

Pet Odor Air Purifier – 5 Features That Make a Pet Odor Air Purifier Effective

By Debbie Davis

Pet odor can be a formidable adversary. You never know when your pet might have an accident, and many times you are unable to locate the spot, either because you can’t find it or are unable to get to it in order to remove, clean, and neutralize it.

Using an air purifier for pet odor lets you stay ahead of the embarrassing smells that can result from inappropriate elimination, and here are 5 features an air purifier must have it if it to be effective.

Variable Fan Speed-Being able to control the rate of filtration is important. On a normal day, the low speed may do just fine. But on days when one mistake or multiple mistakes occur, you may need to increase the rate of filtration. Being able to adjust the rate from low, medium, or high gives you the most control over the way your home smells, letting you keep the air as fresh as possible.

Split Capacitor Motor-This type of motor is designed to run 24 hours a day safely and effectively. Continuous filtration is the secret to effective odor elimination. And not having to remember to cut the purifier on and off because of safety reasons is a great convenience. Having the purifier on continuously eliminates surges of power use, saves energy and money, and assures that your smells fresh and clean regardless of what has happened there while you were away.

Effective Filter for Odor-Make sure it has a filter that is specifically designed for odor removal, and more specifically for removal of pet urine odor. This means you’re covered for whatever kind of odor your pet produces. And should you add more of the same or a different kind of pet, your home has the best chance of remaining clean and fresh.

Flexible Placement-Your purifier should be able to take a back seat to your home decor by needing only a few inches of clearance from any wall. Avoid cleaners that must be placed in the center of the room to operate effectively. This flexibility is important because it allows you to use your floor space as you choose.

HEPA Filter-Even though you are probably most interested in removing odor, airborne pet hair and dander are probably also concerns. Having one of the filters in your cleaner be a HEPA filter means that it will remove airborne particulates such as hair and dander down to .3 microns. This means you can effectively remove both odors and particles from the air with one cleaner rather than having to purchase multiple cleaners. This saves money and space.

The added bonus of this type of filtration is that not only will it eliminate pet related particulates, but normal household particles that are airborne such as dust, dust mites, mold and mildew spores, bacteria and viruses. This type of filter makes your home a healthier place for both you and your pets.

An excellent HEPA air purifier to remove pet odor from your air is offered by PurerAir.com– the Pet Machine Air Purifier See it now at http://purerair.com/austin_air_pet_machine.html

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Debbie_Davis

Protect your pets from fleas and ticks

(ARA) – Summertime brings hot weather, camping trips and, for pet owners, fleas and ticks. These small bugs aren’t a small concern. Ticks are second only to mosquitoes as vectors of human diseases, and flea and tick populations are on the rise nationwide.

“When it comes to external parasites like fleas and ticks, prevention is a far better answer to the problem than having to visit a veterinarian after an infestation has occurred,” says Dr. James O. Cook, president of the American Veterinary Medical Association.

Cook says that a female flea will begin laying eggs within the first 24 hours of infesting your pet and will produce 50 eggs a day. Once these hatch, the larvae can burrow into carpets, under furniture and then, weeks later, they can re-infest your pet.

“It’s far better to avoid all this pain and suffering for you and your pet by using preventative treatments,” Cook says. “Ask your veterinarian for information.”

Dr. Michael W. Dryden, a professor of veterinary medicine at Kansas State University College of Veterinary Medicine and a flea and tick expert, says that both flea and tick problems are on the rise in the United States. Tick populations have been increasing, particularly in Eastern states for well over a decade, and flea populations have surged over the past couple years, particularly in Southern and Central states.

“It’s well-documented that there is an upswing in tick populations, particularly in the Eastern United States, and it has to do with the upswing in the population of Whitetail Deer,” Dryden says. By the early 1900s, hunting and farming practices in this country had nearly eradicated Whitetail Deer, but today there are close to 30 million deer across the country.

This great conservation success has a cost. Lyme disease, which is carried by ticks on Whitetail Deer, is also on the rise in parts of the United States. The best way to prevent diseases spread by ticks is to use a preventative medication. Prompt removal of ticks is very important because it reduces the chance of disease transmission from the tick to your pet. Firmly grip the tick with tweezers, as close to the skin as possible, and gently remove it without twisting. Do not burn the tick with heat or alcohol as this can actually lead to the spread of disease by causing the tick to regurgitate.

Dryden says that the surge in flea populations is a bit of a mystery today. “At about 1999, we thought we had the flea problem licked,” Dryden says. “But in the past couple years, there has been a resurgence, and we really don’t know why. There are a lot of theories, but nobody has been able to prove why flea populations are now increasing in some areas, such as in Southern and Central states.”

The good news is that in the past two and a half years there have been four recently approved parasite control medications introduced in this country. So pet owners have more tools to prevent these pesky, disease-carrying pests, but pet owners should seek the advice of a veterinarian before selecting a treatment.

“I tell people to go into their veterinarian and let your veterinarian choose the appropriate parasite medication for your pet and your region, because parasites can be very local, varying by state or even within a county or city,” Dryden says.”Veterinarians are the best source of information about the appropriate choice of parasite control.”

For more information, or to get a helpful brochure on how to deal with ticks, fleas, ear mites, mange mites and other external parasites, visit www.avma.org. For instructional videos, visit AVMA-TV or the AVMA Media Library.

Courtesy of ARAcontent

Scratching the surface of canine allergies

(ARA) – Most people consider their dog to be more than just a pet. Dogs are true members of the family. So when your dog is itching uncontrollably, it is frustrating not to know what’s wrong. Once owners rule out the possibility of fleas, they are often left with questions unanswered. One problem frequently overlooked is a skin disease caused by environmental allergies.

Like humans, dogs can be hypersensitive to common airborne allergens such as pollen, mold and dust mites. But instead of showing symptoms such as sneezing, watery eyes and a runny nose, dogs present symptoms on the skin that they try to relieve through constant scratching, licking and gnawing. These symptoms are typically signs of an allergic skin disease known as canine atopic dermatitis.

More than an itch
According to Kadence Research, canine atopic dermatitis affects about 16 percent of the canine population. As with human allergies, symptoms are often seasonal but can develop into a year-round problem if not properly treated. Dogs with atopic dermatitis usually start showing signs of the disease between the ages of 6 months and 3 years old, but some will show signs later due to changes in their environment.

Atopic dermatitis is characterized by intense scratching or chewing of the skin, hair loss and a foul odor resulting from the nonstop chewing and licking. The continual scratching can be bothersome to owners when their dogs are restlessly itching. It can also make the dog lethargic because they are unable to sleep due to constant irritation.

“Sam has had allergies for five or six years,” said Marj Voorhees, owner of Sam the Siberian husky. “He was doing lots of scratching, licking and itching. He lost a lot of hair around his face, eyes and ears.”

Voorhees tried using traditional medications and shampoos, as well as immunotherapy and zinc supplements in attempts to end Sam’s suffering. Sam’s therapy made him hungrier than normal and he gained 20 pounds. He also continued to itch.

There are numerous methods used to try to control the symptoms of canine atopic dermatitis. Veterinarians regularly try everything from antihistamines to steroid injections to keep their clients’ dogs from itching.

“Symptoms range from mild to severe,” said Steve Milden, VMD. “But the quality of life for a dog with atopic dermatitis can be diminished if the symptoms go untreated.”

Without a proper diagnosis and treatment plan, dogs with atopic dermatitis will continue to live in pain and discomfort; they won’t simply “grow out of it.” Anyone with active allergies can attest to how miserable life can be with an itchy throat, clogged sinuses and red eyes, so one can only imagine how unhappy dogs are when they have unstoppable itching. Luckily for dogs and their owners, there is a solution for the symptoms of atopic dermatitis.

Not your average backscratcher
The solution for dogs with atopic dermatitis comes in the form of a prescription product called Atopica (Cyclosporine capsules, USP) MODIFIED that specifically targets the immune cells involved in the allergic reaction. Similar to humans taking allergy medicine year-round to prevent flare-ups and misery, the same concept can be applied to treating dog allergies.

“I’ve been prescribing Atopica to dogs for about five years,” said Milden. “My clients couldn’t be more pleased. Their dogs seem to be happier now that they don’t itch all the time and their owners are thankful to have finally found relief for their best friend.”

Like Milden’s clients, Voorhees was able to find relief for her dog. Once Voorhees’ veterinarian prescribed Atopica, Sam was completely different.

“It made a tremendous difference almost immediately,” said Voorhees. “All of his hair grew back. It took care of the itching, too. He’s noticeably more comfortable.”

Owners should speak to their veterinarians if they think their dog may be suffering from allergies. The veterinarian will be able to answer questions and recommend a proper treatment. For more information on canine atopic dermatitis and ways to treat the disease, visit www.atopica.novartis.us or the Novartis Animal Health home page at www.petwellness.com.

Courtesy of ARAcontent

Pet trusts offer animal lovers peace of mind

(ARA) – Jerry and Judi Wilkerson love their bulldog, Lulu Bell – so much so that they decided to set up a pet trust.

“My parents have passed away, and I don’t have a lot of family, so we wanted to make sure Lulu Bell was taken care of no matter what happened,” explained Jerry.  ”It actually relieved a lot of stress. At least we know we have set aside a little bit of money, some instructions and there is a person willing to take care of her.”

Many pet owners assume that they will outlive their beloved pets, but that isn’t always the case. Unfortunately, when animals get left behind, they sometimes wind up in a local humane society where they could be euthanized. A pet trust ensures the animal will continue to receive care and housing even after the death of the pet’s human companion.

The Wilkerson’s pet trust includes about $2,000, simple instructions for care, and entrusts the animal to a cousin who already loves Lulu. The money is primarily to help cover any large expenses that Lulu might incur, like veterinary bills, after the Wilkerson’s deaths.

“It’s interesting to note that very few states allowed pet trusts until 1990. Since then the concept has really taken off, and now more than 42 states allow pet trusts, including three states that passed legislation in 2009. I wouldn’t be surprised if they were allowed in all 50 states ultimately,” says Adrian Hochstadt, assistant director of State Legislative and Regulatory Affairs at the American Veterinary Medical Association (AVMA).

“Today, pet trusts are still relatively unusual in practice – most people choose to will a pet to a trusted family member,” he says. “Pet trusts are one of the fastest growing segments of animal law today.”

Pet trusts can vary according to a person’s needs, and most pet trust laws allow people to will a certain amount of money toward the care of their pet after they are gone.

Missouri was one of the first states to have pet trusts. Gregory Dennis, an attorney in Missouri, says that the state has allowed pet trusts in some form since 1973.

Dennis advises that veterinarians should be made aware of trusts when they treat an animal. If a pet is covered by a trust, it’s the trust that will likely be paying the bill and the trust also may stipulate what kind of veterinary care the animal should receive.

Dennis also notes that bequests that haven’t been carefully drafted and, for example, leave exorbitant sums of money to a dog or cat, could be subject to legal challenges. People may argue that excessively large trusts are a sign a person was not mentally competent at the time the trust was drafted.

“Many state’s pet trust laws include provisions that allows the courts to reduce a pet trust to a reasonable amount if it’s excessive,” says Linscott R. Hansen, an Illinois attorney who helped draft the Illinois pet trust law, which passed in 2004. “I advise people interested in setting up a pet trust to put into a trust just what the pet needs, and that’s enough.”

Hanson explains that pet trust acts allow people to create a trustee to oversee funds and another to care for the animal, which is a good way to help ensure the proper care of the animal. Dennis adds it may be a good idea to include a clause requiring two veterinarians to separately determine when a pet covered by a trust should be euthanized, and perhaps leave any remaining funds in a trust to a charity after the pet’s death.

Michael Cathey, head of the American Veterinary Medical Foundation (AVMF), said that his charitable organization does receive bequests from animal lovers who want a part of their estate to go toward protecting and treating pets. The AVMF funds disaster response efforts for pets, veterinary scholarships and animal health studies, and donors can and do bequest their donations to specific programs. For example, if a dog owner lost a dog to cancer, they may elect to bequest some money to the AVMF to go toward animal health studies, Cathey explains.

“A donor’s wishes are always honored as long as those wishes fit in well with one of our programs,” Cathey says. “If we accept a gift, we will put that money toward whatever program the donor has requested. We’re really trying to help people understand that this option is available to them.”

Courtesy of ARAcontent

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